Introduction to Home Remedies for Dogs

Dog Health Articles

There's a great deal you can do to provide your dog with medical care at home. Don't expect to rival your veterinarian in expertise -- and don't try. Sometimes a sick dog has to go to the vet. But a broad knowledge of common dog illnesses and symptoms will make you a better dog owner, and it could mean a longer, happier life for your pooch. In this article, we cover a wide range of topics relating to dog care.

  • Evaluating a Dog's Health

    For a variety of reasons, it's useful to know how to assess the health of your dog. Should your ailing dog be taken to the vet? Or is it something that can be addressed at home? In this section, we offer a basic checklist of exams you can give your dog to help you recognize common maladies and know how to treat them or when to call the vet. For instance, we tell you how to check a dog's eyes, ears, and mouth. Every dog owner should be familiar with this information.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Fleas

    Fleas are a common problem for dogs, and it's easy to see why. Despite not having wings, they can leap from dog to dog. And that's when the trouble starts. Fleas are blood suckers, so they can do bad things to your dog's skin. In some cases, the fleas can cause harmful bacterial infections. Knowing how to deal with a dog that has fleas is of paramount importance. This page offers several basic flea guidelines, including ways to prevent your dog from getting them in the first place. It also tells you how to rid your dog of fleas without having to use chemical products.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Foxtails

    A foxtail is a type of grass that has a spiky bristle on top. Foxtails easily can attach themselves to the coat of a dog and then pierce the animal's skin. In a worst-case scenario, these cuts can lead to a dangerous infection. What to do? For one, inspect your dog's coat after the animal has been outside. If you find a foxtail, remove it immediately. If you're unable to remove it yourself, then you need to call your vet. Follow our guide for dealing with the prickly menace that is a foxtail.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Mange

    Everyone's heard the term "mangy dog," but what exactly does it mean? We have the answer in this section. Mange is a wide range of mites that can take up residence in your dog's coat and cause great harm. The best way to treat mange is to avoid it completely. This can be done by frequently bathing and brushing your dog. Sometimes, though, mange mites take up residence in your dog's fur no matter what you do. This section explains these dangerous critters and how you can rid your dog of them at home.

  • Home Remedies for Overweight Dogs

    Obesity has become a health crisis for we humans -- but we're not alone. Dogs can grow obese, too -- especially older dogs who do less running around. In this section, we tell you how to determine whether your dog falls into the overweight category. If your dog is indeed overweight, we can be of help. We provide useful tips on how to give it regular exercise and how to resist the urge to feed it too much. The advice in this section can help ensure that your dog leads a happier, healthier, and longer life.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Porcupine Quills

    A lapdog isn't likely to encounter a porcupine, but active outdoor dogs might, and some dogs never learn to avoid porcupines, even after a bad experience. If you happen to own a dog that just can't stay away from porcupine quills, you'll need to know how to remove them. The key is to not break the quill; otherwise it will be much more difficult to get out. Check out how you can extract porcupine quills -- or recognize when it's time to take the dog to the vet for treatment.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Sore Paws

    After a long day of walking around, your feet sometimes hurt. Believe it or not, dogs get sore feet, too -- especially dogs that love to run and play. Although a dog's paw pads are tough, they are are susceptible to scratches, scrapes, burns, and more. One home remedy is to apply a pine-tar paste to your dog's paws. Simple soap and water also can sometimes relieve the pain your dog is feeling. Check out these handy home remedies for a dog with sore paws.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Sunburn

    Nothing beats fun in the sun, but as we know, there's a downside to those ultraviolet rays. Even dogs can get sunburned, especially those with short fur that lie in the sun with their bellies exposed. We humans can simply apply a coat of suntan lotion to protect ourselves from the sun, and the same can be done for dogs. Just make sure your dog doesn't lick off the lotion. We offer ways of remedying sunburn on dogs, and ways of preventing the malady in the first place.

  • Home Remedies for Dogs With Worms

    Sure, your dog has worms but which type? Coccidia? Giardia? Heartworm? Hookworms? Roundworms? Tapeworms? Whipworms? The list seems endless. As you can see, worms are a wide range of parasites that pass among various animals -- including dogs, of course. They can be tiny organisms or full-sized worms, but the results can be dangerous regardless. Although different types of worms require different types of treatment, the affliction generally can be treated with medication. Read this section to learn important details on recognizing and treating worms in dogs.

  • How to Nurse an Ailing Dog

    No matter what the malady, you will want to do everything you can to speed your dog's recovery. There's a lot you can do at home. Here are some of the ways you can nurse your sick dog back to health: (1) You can warm its food, (2) you can take strides to limit its physical activity, and (3) you can make sure it gets its medicine regularly. It's not always necessary to run your dog into the vet when it's down and out. We provide guidelines for nursing it back to health in the comfort of its own home.

Evaluating Your Dog's Health

While a full-scale physical exam should be left to an expert (your veterinarian), your ability to perform home dog medical exams is a valuable skill. It allows you to become familiar with your dog's entire body, so you notice instantly when something isn't right. Your dog's regular grooming session is a great time to perform a home exam. The extra attention of a dog grooming is something she'll enjoy, and it's a good opportunity to spend some quality time together. Consider these dog health tips:

Skin and fleas. Start by looking for dry skin, dandruff, fleas, and flea dirt. To check for flea dirt, brush out your dog's coat over a white piece of paper or light-colored towel. If you see any little black specks, moisten them with a drop of water or smear them with a damp cotton ball. They'll turn red if they're flea dirt. Fleas, of course, can be picked up with a fine-toothed flea comb. Dip the flea comb in a bowl of soapy water -- the soap holds them down and keeps them from jumping out, and the water drowns them. If you find signs of any of these problems, consult your veterinarian. The vet can advise you on the best dog-care products or dog treatments.

As you comb or brush your dog, pay attention to her reaction. Does she enjoy the feel of the brush going through her fur, or does she flinch when you touch a certain spot? Examine the area for lumps or sores. If you find an area that seems painful, make a note of its appearance. Is the lump hard or soft? Oozing or rough? Pass this information on to your veterinarian.

Eyes, ears, and mouth. The eyes should be bright and clear, with no redness or runny discharge. Tear stains beneath the eyes may indicate a problem. Besides looking into your dog's ears (they should be dry, with no discharge), sniff them, too. It sounds strange, but an unpleasant odor in her ear is a sign of an infection that may be out of sight in the ear canal. While cleaning your dog's teeth, take a look around her mouth. The gums should be a healthy pink, not pale or red.

Paws. Finally, examine your dog's paws. Do the nails need to be trimmed? Long nails can get snagged and break and are difficult to walk on. If they get too long, your dog can even become lame. Finish the exam with a soothing massage. It's a good way to deepen the bond between you and your dog.

Keep a written record of your home exams so you know what's normal for your dog. Note her eating, sleeping, and elimination habits, as well as activity levels. By referring to this health diary on a regular basis, you'll notice immediately if something has changed -- and these records can be invaluable in helping your veterinarian diagnose any problems.

Fleas love dogs. In the next section, we'll discuss home remedies for fleas.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Fleas

There's no doubt. Fleas can be the bane of a dog's (and dog owner's) existence. The little critters are pretty amazing. They've got six tiny legs and no wings, yet they can leap tall dogs in a single bound. Scientists have identified nearly 2,000 species of fleas, but ironically, it's Ctenocephalides felis -- the cat flea -- that gives dogs the most grief.

Dogs with fleas can be a real problem. Fleas are blood suckers, and where there's one, you can be certain there are a whole lot more. Besides the usual minor itching and scratching a flea infestation causes, some dogs are extra-sensitive to flea saliva. Just one bite may be enough to bring on the unbearable itching of flea-allergy dermatitis (FAD). In severe cases, the cycle of itching and scratching causes the dog's skin to thicken and her hair to fall out. The raw skin is also more vulnerable to bacterial infections.

Fortunately, there are a variety of well-tested and readily available products to kill or repel fleas. Borates (used in those powdered flea-control products you sprinkle on your carpets) cause adult fleas, eggs, and larvae to lose moisture and dry up. Insect growth regulators stop immature fleas from becoming adults and reproducing. New weapons in the war on fleas include lufenuron, the active ingredient in the recently developed flea-control pill that interferes with the flea egg's ability to hatch. Several products, including Frontline, K9 Advantix, Advantage, and Revolution, kill adult fleas on contact and have long-lasting effects. Contact your veterinarian for more information on these flea products.

Whatever flea-control products you choose, always read and follow directions precisely. Never assume if a little is good, a lot will be better. Every flea product (natural or other) is a poison of some kind, and, if used incorrectly, can be dangerous.

What to Do About It

Even with all the new safer and longer-lasting flea-control products available, you still need to follow some basic rules to the letter in order to get the upper hand with fleas.

Build a flea trap. While building flea traps won't rid your house of fleas, it's a good way to verify that you've got them in your house and determine how severe an infestation you're dealing with. Hang a light source over a sticky, disposable surface (flypaper works well for this) or a bowl of soapy water. The heat from the light source attracts any nearby fleas, many of which will then get caught on the sticky surface or in the water. You'll notice the fleas as small, dark, flat-bodied insects, roughly the size of the commas in this sentence.

Give fleas an eviction notice. You absolutely must treat all dogs and cats, as well as the premises -- all at the same time -- and be diligent about follow-up treatment and future preventative treatment. Treat carpets with a borate-based powder. Spray the yard, too. Ideally, you should use an outdoor flea-control product that is long-lasting, kills adult fleas, and contains insect growth regulators to catch immature fleas before they can grow up and repopulate your property. Moist, shady areas are favorite flea playgrounds and breeding grounds, so clear out falled leaves, pine needles, wood, and garbage from under trees, shrubs, and plants. If spraying the whole grounds isn't feasible, try to at least concentrate on areas your dog frequents: around the doghouse, along the fence line, under the porch, and so on.

Professional pest-control companies can handle flea control for you. But before you sign the contract, get written information on the compounds and method of application the company uses. Run the list by your veterinarian.

Take your dog for a dip. Actually, the best thing to do with a dog who has fleas while the premises are being "de-fleaed" is to take her to the veterinarian for a medicated dip or other flea treatment. In fact, that's also a good idea for an effective flea-control program. Your vet may choose to give your dog lufenuron for flea control, which is given as a monthly pill. In warm areas like southern California, dogs on lufenuron get their pills year-round. In temperate areas of the country, where winter gets cold enough to kill off fleas, the pills are only given during flea season -- from early spring to sometime in the fall. Talk to your vet about the options, though. It may be that one of the topical treatments works best for you and your dog. Topicals hit fleas right where they live -- on the outside of your dog -- and start working immediately.

If your dog loves to swim or play in the water, or gets bathed frequently, a topical can get washed off, though. Newer topical products like Frontline have very long residual effects, only needing to be applied every two or three months, and they don't wash off. Fleas can develop resistance to a particular product in a surprisingly short time, so your veterinarian may recommend a program of alternating products and treatment strategies.

Treat hot spots. Dogs with flea-allergy dermatitis often develop hot spots -- moist, infected areas of the skin. To soothe hot spots, mix one part melaleuca oil (tea tree oil) and one part water. Put the solution in a spray bottle, and use it whenever your dog is biting or scratching. You can also apply a natural menthol liniment such as Absorbine Jr. a few times a day until the area dries up.

When to Call the Vet

Heavy drooling and a case of the shakes are the most likely early signs of chemical poisoning. If you see these symptoms in your dog -- whether during the course of a flea-control program or not -- get her to the vet immediately. Left untreated, chemical poisoning may quickly progress to convulsions, collapse, coma, and even death.

Next we'll consider home remedies for foxtails.

Natural Ways for Getting Rid of Dog Fleas
If you're leery of using chemical products on your dog or home, there are a number of plant-, vitamin-, and herbal-based natural flea treatments available. Adding garlic or brewer's yeast to a dog's food has long been thought to help keep fleas from alighting and biting. Since both are ordinary food products and not harmful to dogs, there's really nothing to lose by giving them a try. Herbal flea collars and powders are also popular and widely available.

Eucalyptus, fennel, rosemary, rue, wormwood, and yellow dock all seem to act as flea repellents. To make your own herbal flea powder, combine equal amounts of these herbs and mix them well. Sprinkle a small amount of the powder on your dog's coat and massage it in thoroughly, making sure to work it all the way down to the skin. You can also use a drop or two of the essential oils of eucalyptus and rosemary on a plain canvas or fabric-covered collar.

As with any flea collar, though, watch for signs of hair loss or skin irritation around the neck, and be careful that the dog doesn't chew on the collar. You can also buy ready-made herbal flea collars at pet supply and natural food stores.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Foxtails

A foxtail is a very common type of grass topped with a slender, spiky bristle. When foxtail bristles get caught in a dog's coat, the barbed ends can pierce her skin, working their way farther and farther in as the dog moves.

Foxtails are often found between a dog's toes, but the dog whose luck is not equal to her curiosity may have the painful misfortune of getting a foxtail up her nose. Foxtails are the most common type of imbedded foreign body to be taken out of dogs in this country. Obviously, dogs who spend a lot of time in the great outdoors -- especially sporting or working dogs -- are the most likely to encounter a foxtail.

Of course, embedded foxtails in dogs hurt the animal, but of even more concern is the fact that bacteria are often carried into the wound with the spike -- and into the body as far as the spikes burrow. The resulting infections can be very serious, particularly those that occur in the chest.

What to Do About It

The best strategy for foxtails is to avoid them completely. If you can't avoid them, be sure to check your dog thoroughly and keep her coat short during foxtail season. After outdoor adventures, carefully inspect your dog's entire coat, including between the toes. If you find even the smallest sliver, remove it as soon as possible to prevent it from moving deeper into your dog's coat.

When to Call the Vet

If your dog has a foxtail and you can't remove it easily, take your pooch to the vet. Don't count on it to come out on its own. The longer you wait, the deeper it can go, so don't hesitate. The foxtail may have to be removed surgically, and the doctor may prescribe a course of antibiotics to curb any infection.

Mange can be just as unpleasant for dogs -- and their owners -- as foxtails. In the next section, we'll provide home remedies for mange.

Home Remedies for Mange

Everybody knows the term "mangy mutt," referring to a pooch who's seen better days. It conjures up the image of some poor broken-down mutt with a ratty, patchy coat. In fact, that's pretty much how dogs with mange really look. Mange is caused by an infestation of mange mites. It's Latin name, Demodex canis, gives rise to the other formal names for this condition: demodicosis or demodectic mange.

Most healthy dogs actually carry around a small population of Demodex mites. The trouble starts when there's a population explosion and the mites get out of control. Demodicosis can be localized, meaning it's found on only one area of the dog's body, or it can be generalized, spreading over the entire body. Localized demodicosis is more common, and it often clears up on its own. On the other hand, generalized demodicosis, which fortunately is pretty rare, requires the dog be dipped once or twice a week for six to eight weeks. The dog usually has to be shaved for the dip to be most effective.

Demodicosis is believed to be, at least in part, genetic, and dogs diagnosed with it should be neutered so they don't pass on the tendency. Breeds that tend to have more than their share of demodicosis are Afghan Hounds, American Pit Bull Terriers, American Staffordshire Terriers, Boston Terriers, Boxers, Bulldogs, Chihuahuas, Chinese Shar-Pei, Collies, Dalmatians, Dobermans, German Shepherd Dogs, Great Danes, Old English Sheepdogs, and Pugs.

Another type of mange mite, Sarcoptes scabei (var. canis), is the cause of sarcoptic mange -- better known as scabies. This mite burrows into the skin's outermost layer and lays its egg. The eggs hatch, the larvae mature, and the emergent adult mites start the life cycle all over again. Scabies is highly contagious, and is one of the more common conditions that can be passed from dogs to people through direct contact.

What to Do About It

The best treatment for mange is prevention. Regular brushing and baths will help remove scaly skin and scabs caused by mange and can help keep your dog mange-free. If your dog has been infested with mange mites, thoroughly wash his bedding or other sleeping areas. Do not try any other treatment at home until you take your dog to the vet.

When to Call the Vet

Signs of localized demodicosis are patchy hair loss and scaly, reddened skin around the face or on the front legs. Generalized demodicosis has similar signs, but they are widespread and more severe, being especially likely to affect the feet. To diagnose demodicosis, your vet will gently scrape off some of the superficial layers of the dog's skin and examine them under the microscope to see if mites are present. If necessary, the vet will prescribe a dip and antibiotics to ward off any secondary infections caused by scratching. Unfortunately, demodicosis is persistent and recovery isn't guaranteed, especially in older dogs.

Signs of scabies are hair loss, small red bumps, and intense itching. Like demodectic mange, scabies is diagnosed through skin scrapings and treated with a weekly dip that your vet will prescribe. If your dog is diagnosed with scabies, you'll need to isolate her until her course of treatment is complete, and thoroughly clean everything she's been in contact with. Sarcoptic mange mites are extremely persistent, so other dogs in the household should also be treated, even if they don't show signs.

Now let's move to the next condition that can affect a dog -- obesity.

Home Remedies for Overweight Dogs

We all know that carrying extra weight isn't healthy for humans, contributing to such health problems as heart disease and diabetes, and the same goes for dogs. Obesity is the most common canine nutritional disease in this country, occurring in up to 25 percent of the population. Chubby dogs are more likely to develop serious diseases like diabetes, joint problems, infections, skin disease, and even certain cancers.

Of course, the best thing for your dog is not to let him get fat in the first place. Keeping dogs healthy and trim works the same way as with people. Limit the intake of food to just enough to maintain normal body weight (in other words, follow label feeding instructions), don't leave food out all day for your dog to nibble, cut out snacks, and be sure he gets enough exercise. Good habits start young, so if you have a puppy, don't overfeed him, and make sure the exercise he gets is the right kind: Too much jumping and running can be harmful to the bone development of a growing puppy.

To determine whether your dog is already too heavy, stand over him and check for a waist -- a visible indentation behind his ribs. Then give him a hands-on test. Can you feel his ribs? They shouldn't be sticking out, but you should be able to find them through a layer of skin and muscle. If all you feel is rolls of fat, it's time to work with your veterinarian to develop a diet and exercise plan.

A veterinary checkup will ensure your dog doesn't have any health problems that would preclude regular exercise and a change in food and current exercise. Your vet will also advise you on the safest rate of weight loss; losing too much weight too fast can be dangerous. Monitor your dog's progress with weekly weigh-ins, either at the veterinarian's office or at home.

Since overweight dogs are also out of shape, an exercise program must be started slowly. Begin with short walks and work up to longer ones. Once your dog has lost some weight and built up his stamina, you can intersperse periods of jogging or running. Of course, use common sense when you exercise your dog. Go out early in the morning or in the evening, when it's cool, and stop long before your dog shows signs of exhaustion, such as panting or reluctance to continue. Your natural cooling system is better than your dog's (you can sweat; he can't), which means you can exert heavily for longer periods without overheating. Each year, many dogs die while gallantly trying to keep up with their humans on a long run.

To keep his diet on the right track, offer food only at mealtimes. If you can't resist giving treats, offer pieces of fruit (apples or bananas) or vegetables (carrots or broccoli). They're low in calories, and dogs love them.

Obesity can afflict a dog who stays inside all the time, but our next malady -- porcupine quills -- requires that your pooch go outside.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Porcupine Quills

You'd think one nose full of quills would be enough to put any dog off of her curiosity about porcupines. But some dogs never learn. If your dog is covered in quills, take her to the vet. But if she comes home with just a few prickles, you can try to remove them yourself.

What to Do About It

If your dog's snout gets converted into some porcupine's pincushion, get yourself some rubber gloves, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a dose of courage, and a strong-willed assistant to help you hold the dog. There's nothing pretty about the procedure, and there are no easy shortcuts. Just grasp each quill near the point of entry and pull straight out. Try not to break any quills; they'll be harder to remove, and any part of the quill left behind can encourage infection. Once you're done removing quills from a dog, apply a topical antiseptic to the affected area.

When to Call the Vet

If you're leery about pulling quills out of a dog yourself, bring the animal to your vet. If the dog has taken a large number of quills, or if the quills are embedded in tricky or painful places (inside the dog's mouth, for instance) she will likely need sedation or even anesthesia.

Yes, dogs get sore feet, just like you. In the next section, we cover how to treat sore feet on dogs.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Sore Paws

A dog's foot pads are firm and thick, since they were designed by nature to endure tough surfaces. But durable as they are, a dog paws are still susceptible to soreness, burns, and scrapes. Sore foot pads are a common aftereffect of a long day of hiking, walking on hot pavement in the summertime, or overdoing a play session due to a dog's natural exuberance.

What to Do About It

If a pet's paws are dog-tired, you can give her some relief with a thick paste of pine tar and fuller's earth. Apply the mixture to the affected area to soothe and heal it. After an outdoor jaunt, always check your dog's paws for cuts and scratches. If your dog was running around in a muddy area, wash her paws with some soap and water, and dry her feet thoroughly.

When to Call the Vet

Sore footpads usually do not require a trip to the vet, unless you notice your dog is limping or you find a deep wound on her paw.

Now that we've studied sore dog paws, we'll consider another malady we humans are familiar with -- sunburn. Dogs can get it, too. It's covered in the next section.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Sunburn

If your dog likes to sit in the sun -- and what dog doesn't -- you need to make sure she doesn't get too much of a good thing. Dogs are susceptible to sunburn, especially in areas where their fur is thinner, such as the tips of their ears or bridge of their noses. White- or light-coated dogs -- like fair-skinned people -- are especially prone to sunburn.

A sunburned dog shows the classic sign of reddened skin that peels and blisters. The result is sore and painful skin. Just as with people, excessive exposure to the sun can cause cancer in dogs.

What to Do About It

Protect your dog by limiting the amount of time she spends in the sun, using zinc oxide around the nose area, or applying sunscreen (careful with this -- don't let her lick it off). There's even a sunscreen for dogs, available at pet supply stores.

For sunburn pain, mist the affected area with a water bottle. The cool water will soothe some of the discomfort. A cold compress is another way to relieve the pain. Dampen a small towel and place it over the afflicted area. Rewet the towel when it starts to feel warm.

When to Call the Vet

A sunburn usually does not require a trip to the vet. However, if the skin is raw or broken or if your dog is visibly in pain, it's a good idea.

Worms are yet another common dog malady. In the next section, we'll tell you how to treat a dog that has worms.

Home Remedies for Dogs With Worms

Dogs can be afflicted by many kinds of worms and worm-like parasites. In this section, we detail the many common kinds.

Coccidia

Not really a worm but a one-celled microscopic organism, this parasite is not especially common in dogs, but it can strike young puppies, particularly when they're living in crowded conditions with lax sanitation. The disease is picked up through contaminated water, food, or surroundings. Coccidia produce eggs in the dog's intestinal tract, which are then passed into the environment in the stool. Coccidia can lie dormant, causing no symptoms, but they can be activated by some sort of stress. Once they swing into action, these little protozoans start doing their dirty work, causing diarrhea, weakness, lack of appetite, anemia, and dehydration. Your vet will probably treat Coccidia with sulfa drugs and antibiotics. Good hygiene is the key to containing and preventing Coccidia. Pick up the stool immediately, making sure there's no opportunity for food or water to be contaminated by it. If your dog is diagnosed with Coccidia, a thorough cleaning of her living area, using strong (but canine-safe) disinfectants or boiling water, is needed.

Giardia

This is another protozoal parasite -- and it can affect dogs and people. Giardia is often waterborne, entering the water supply through contamination by wild animals, dogs, and people. Signs of Giardia infection are diarrhea, which may appear bloody or slimy, and sometimes a mild stomach upset. Your vet will treat Giardia with antiprotozoal drugs. Protect your dog from Giardia by not letting your dog drink from streams, rivers, or lakes, no matter how clean they may look.

Heartworm

Once restricted to the more hot and humid areas of the United States, and of most concern for dogs who spent a lot of time in the woods, heartworm is now prevalent in every part of the country.

The life cycle of the heartworm, Dirofilaria immitis, begins with the bite of a mosquito carrying heartworm larvae. The larvae enter the skin, going through several stages of development and eventually riding through the dog's bloodstream to the right side of the heart. Here they stay and become mature worms. If not detected, the population of adult worms can grow, creating a mass that blocks blood flow, decreases the heart's efficiency, and eventually causes the right side of the heart to fail.

When the adult worms breed, they produce microfilaria. These are offspring that enter the circulating blood and are small enough to be sucked up by a mosquito that bites the infected dog. Within 10 to 48 days, the microfilaria develop into infectious larvae. The next time the mosquito bites a dog, these heartworm larvae are passed along and the cycle begins all over again.

Dogs infested with heartworms may go for years without showing signs. When the heartworms eventually start to cause a dog trouble, an early sign may be a deep, soft cough that gets worse with exertion. As the cycle progresses, the dog becomes lethargic, loses weight, and sometimes coughs up blood. In the later stages of heartworm disease, the dog has trouble breathing, her chest bulges, and she develops congestive heart failure. Without treatment, she'll die.

Fortunately, a routine blood test can detect heartworm even before any signs appear. And heartworm can be easily prevented. Every dog should be tested for heartworm (your veterinarian can tell you when and how often). Most dogs will test negative, but your vet may still recommend a heartworm preventative. Diethylcarbamazine (DEC, which is sold under brand names such as Filaribits) kills the infectious larvae. It must be given daily during mosquito season to make sure no larvae survive to mature into adult worms.

If a dog is diagnosed with heartworm, treatment depends on how far along things are. If there's heart failure or liver or kidney damage, those problems must be attended to first. The treatment for a full-blown case of heartworms is very stressful, and the dog must be in the best possible condition in order to survive it. Follow-up care is crucial, too. About six weeks after initial treatment, the recovering dog gets another drug to kill any microfilaria produced by the adult worms. A blood sample is checked to make sure all the microfilaria are gone. If it comes up positive, additional treatments are given until the dog is completely free of worms and microfilaria.

Hookworms

Hookworms are most often found in warm, humid areas of the country but can show up anywhere. These worms, the most common of which is known as Ancylostoma caninum, usually affect puppies, although adult dogs can have them, too. They're usually passed in the mother's milk or even through the skin and take up residence in the pup's small intestine. Once in the dog's belly, they hook onto the intestinal wall, sucking in tissue and blood. This causes one of the classic signs of hookworm infestation: dark, tarry, or bloody stool. In serious cases of hookworm disease, dogs suffer severe anemia.

Like most other intestinal worms, hookworms are diagnosed by examining a stool sample under a microscope. If hookworm eggs are found, your vet will probably prescribe medication to kill the adult worms. In areas of the country where hookworm is extremely common, a healthy dog with a mild case may not be treated, since she'll probably be reinfected quickly anyway. The best prevention for hookworm is being diligent in picking up after your dog. The longer an infected dog's stool sits, the more likely it is that any hookworm eggs will hatch out into larvae and find their way under your dog's skin.

Roundworms

Roundworms (Toxocara canis) are common in dogs, especially young puppies. Roundworm eggs are found in the soil, where they can survive for years. The life cycle of the roundworm seems unnecessarily difficult. The dog swallows the eggs from nosing around on the ground or picking something up in her mouth. The eggs hatch into larvae, ride through the bloodstream to the lungs and from there up the windpipe, where they're swallowed again, return to the intestine, and become mature adult worms. Roundworm larvae can also be passed from mother to puppies through the placenta (the pups are actually born with roundworms) or through the mother's milk.

Adult dogs can carry roundworms without much in the way of symptoms. But puppies with a load of them may vomit, have diarrhea, and lose weight. They have a noticeable pot belly (more than the usual "puppy tummy"), their coats are dull, and they don't thrive like other pups. Occasionally, a dog may pass some of the worms in her stool. These worms look like strands of wriggling white spaghetti.

Responsible breeders and shelters check their dogs and puppies for roundworms and other parasites, and give them the regimen of medication to knock out the uninvited guests. Puppies should have had a fecal exam and worming before they're old enough to be adopted, although follow-up doses of the medication may be needed. As with other types of worms, good sanitation is the key to prevention.

Tapeworms

Fleas are the most common carriers of tapeworm, although they can also be transmitted in small rodents or raw meat. So be careful in handling raw meat, and never feed your dog raw or undercooked meat or animal parts. If your dog has been treated for fleas, there's a good chance she's got tapeworms, too. The head -- or scolex -- of the tapeworm (the most common one in dogs is called Dipylidium caninum) hooks onto the intestine and begins producing a series of flat egg-filled segments resulting in a single worm with a length that can vary from a few inches to several feet. The most common way of diagnosing tapeworm is finding these segments -- which look like grains of rice -- in the dog's stool or clinging to the fur around the dog's anus.

Since the eggs are shed in the segments, a fecal exam can easily miss a tapeworm infestation. It's up to you to keep a close eye out for the segments themselves and for other possible signs, such as digestive trouble (usually seen in younger dogs with large infestations) and scooting. This type of behavior is defined by the dog dragging her rear end along the ground. Scooting can be a response to irritation from tapeworms, but it can also be a sign of an impacted anal gland -- something your vet or groomer can remedy easily. Once tapeworm has been detected (or suspected), treatment is simple and effective. Prevention includes flea control and not feeding the dog raw or undercooked meat and animal products.

Whipworms

Skinny little things with a bulge at one end, whipworms (Trichuris vulpes) are so named because their shape suggests a tiny whip. Dogs pick up whipworm eggs from the environment. The eggs hatch in a pooch's intestinal tract, where the worms latch onto the wall of the large intestine and start producing eggs all over again. Like other kinds of worms, whipworms are usually only noticeable in young or debilitated dogs. A heavy infestation may cause diarrhea, anemia, or weight loss.

Once again, treatment is a simple medication, usually repeated at least one more time to catch any recently hatched worms before they reinfect the dog. Since the eggs are shed in the infected dog's stool, prevention is a matter of common sense and common courtesy: Keep your dog away from the stools of other dogs, and pick up after your dog promptly. Regular fecal exams -- twice a year is best -- will catch a case of worms before it gets out of control.

Our final section covers how to help a dog's recovery from an illness.

How to Nurse an Ailing Dog

Any time your dog needs treatment for a significant health problem, his recovery at home will go faster if he gets lots of tender loving nursing care. It's up to you to make sure he gets plenty of rest, eats right, takes all his medicine, and doesn't get too active too soon.

Make him a comfortable bed in a quiet area away from all the hubbub in your home. This could be in a bedroom, a laundry room, or a bathroom that isn't used often. If you have kids in your household, don't let them bother the dog too much. They can go in one at a time for a few minutes each day to sit quietly with Rex, but no roughhousing or loud sounds until he's feeling better.

To tempt his taste buds, serve his food warm -- but not so hot that he burns his mouth -- or top it with something that smells good, such as chicken or beef broth. Scrambled eggs, yogurt, and cottage cheese will also encourage his appetite. Be sure to check with your vet before supplementing his diet to make sure you aren't offering anything he shouldn't have. Rex will need plenty of fresh, cool water as well. Make it easy for him to reach so he'll get enough.

Follow your veterinarian's directions to the letter when it comes to exercise. If your dog is recovering from surgery, especially for a broken bone, it's important that he doesn't overdo it. It's hard to keep a good dog down, but if you want him to recover properly, you'll have to be lovingly firm.

Finally, even if he seems to be well, don't stop giving Rex all his prescribed medications until they're all gone. Looks can be deceiving, and it's most likely he needs all the healing power the full course of dog medication contains.

Before you take your pooch home from the vet or animal hospital, ask the doctor or a technician to show you how to give the medication properly. Dogs can be pretty sneaky about hiding pills under their tongues or in their cheeks and spitting them out later. The pros can show you some tried-and-true tricks to outsmart even the cagiest canine.

Giving Dogs Medication

If you've been a dog owner for awhile, you know that getting Fido to take his medicine is not always easy. Rare is the dog who will take his medicine willingly, so here are some helpful ways to give your dog his medicine at home.

Pills. If you're fortunate, you may have one of those dogs who will actually take pills without any fuss at all. For others, it may be easiest to have someone else hold the dog while you give him the pill. With practice, though, most owners can perfect the technique enough to pill their dogs solo.

Be sure you have the pill out and ready to go before you start. Hold the dog's head firmly with one hand or, if he's small, hold him firmly between your knees while kneeling on the floor. If you're working with a puppy or a toy breed, it might be easier to wrap the dog in a towel so he can't move, or place him on a table or counter.

Hold the pill in your right hand (reverse these directions if you are left-handed). Using the first and middle fingers of your left hand, gently open Fido's jaws, and put the pill as far back on the tongue as you can get it. Close his mouth and stroke his throat to get the pill to go down.

Another way to give pills is to tilt Fido's head straight up with your left hand. Hold the pill between the thumb and forefinger of your right hand, and use the middle finger to open his mouth. Put the pill into the back of his mouth, and use your forefinger to push it over the tongue. To get him to swallow, hold his mouth closed and rub or blow into his nose.

If all else fails, disguise the pill by wrapping it in something soft and tasty such as cream cheese or peanut butter. Unless Fido is really smart or really cautious about what he puts into his mouth, the pill will go down without him even knowing it. Since some medications need to be given on an empty stomach, interact with certain foods, or should not be accidentally chewed, be sure to ask your veterinarian if it's okay to give the pill this way.

Liquid medications. Again, get the medicine ready: Shake the bottle if needed, measure the dosage, and fill the dropper. Now get the dog. Hold him the same way you would if you were giving a pill. With his head tilted upward, pry open his mouth and aim the eyedropper at the cheek pouch. Then, with the dropper still inside, hold his mouth closed, and squeeze out the medication. He'll swallow automatically when the liquid reaches the back of his mouth. Make sure he has swallowed before you release your hold on his mouth. Just to be on the safe side, rub or blow into his nose to make him lick, which will trigger swallowing.

Ear drops. Get a good grasp on the dog. Holding his ear gently but firmly, tilt his head slightly to the opposite side. Drop the correct dosage into the ear and gently fold the ear down or together and rub the cartilage at the base of his ear to get the medication all the way into the ear canal. This also helps keep more of the medicine in the dog's ear if your dog shakes his head afterward.

Eyedrops. Get everything ready and measure out the proper dosage. Restrain the dog gently but firmly. It's especially important to keep his head still so the medicine goes in his eye but the dropper doesn't. Hold the dropper in your right hand (reverse this if you are left-handed), tilt his head up and aim the drops at the inner corner of the eye, directly on the eyeball. Don't touch the eye with the tip of the eyedropper. To make sure the medication gets distributed evenly over the eye, close and open the eyelid.

Ointments. Sometimes ointments are prescribed for the eyes or ears. To apply ointment to the eyes, hold Fido's head steady, and gently pull down on his lower lid, exposing the inner eyelid. Put the ointment on the inside lower lid. Be careful not to get it directly on the eyeball. You can also pull the upper lid back and put the ointment on the white of the eye. To make sure the medication gets distributed evenly over the eye, close and open the eyelid. To apply ointments to ears, follow the same directions for ear drops.

We've covered all of the major topics in caring for your dog at home, including remedies for dogs' most common maladies. You should feel more confident in your ability care for the pooch.

Your Home Veterinary First-Aid Kit
Ready-made first-aid kits are available at pet stores or through catalogs. You can also put one together yourself, using items from around the house. Put the kit where it can be easily found and include your veterinarian's business card, along with the phone number for and directions to the nearest emergency clinic. Check the kit every once in a while to make sure you aren't running low on any supplies and everything is still usable. The following items make up a basic first-aid kit:
  • Activated charcoal (available at drugstores) for absorbing poisons
  • Adhesive tape to secure bandages
  • Antibacterial ointment or powder for cleaning wounds
  • Antidiarrheal agent such as Kaopectate (Ask your vet what amount is appropriate for controlling your dog's diarrhea.)
  • Blunt-tipped scissors to trim away hair from wounds and cut bandaging material
  • Cotton balls and cotton swabs
  • Gauze pads and rolls to make bandages
  • Hydrogen peroxide (3 percent) to clean wounds
  • Laxative or antacid such as milk of magnesia
  • Lubricating jelly or petroleum jelly to lubricate a thermometer
  • Needleless syringe for giving liquid medications
  • Plaster splint for broken limbs
  • Plastic eyedropper to administer liquid medications or eyedrops
  • Rectal thermometer
  • Rubbing alcohol
  • Syrup of ipecac to induce vomiting
  • Tweezers
Other helpful items for your kit might be needle-nose pliers to remove porcupine quills or other items stuck in the mouth or throat, sanitary napkins to help stop heavy blood flow, and towels.

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